Friday, July 3, 2009

Get 'er Done - Day 15 - Friday, July 3rd - Coming Home.

Spoke w/ Todd via cell phone from Talkeetna, Alaska at 1PM – Denver.

Day 15 – Friday, July 3rd – After retrieving their cache and a short rest the team left 11,000 ft. about 2AM - Denali time.  With the lower temperatures on the higher mountain Dave said it was 'HOT' at 11,000.  Traveling in the early hours this morning  snow conditions on the lower Kahiltna Glacier were firm.  The recent volcanic activity from the Redoubt Volcano on the Alaskan, Cook Inlet has deposited a layer of ash on the lower Kahiltna Glacier resulting in an unlevel undulating surface which made pulling the sleds a bit more difficult.  As the team climbed the final Heart Break Hill into Base Camp at 7,200 ft they were filmed by an NBC affiliate from Anchorage and Todd was then interviewed – very cool.  Shortly after arriving at Base Camp the entire team and gear were able to load onto a TAT plane and fly back to Talkeetna. 

After retrieving their bags from storage at TAT, a shower [which has got to feel pretty good after 15 days] they will likely have a huge meal, organize gear and arrange for transportation back to Anchorage and..... hopefully catch the midnight Alaska Airlines flight back to Denver. 

**On any expedition the most important thing is to come home safe.  It’s also a goal of every expedition for all to come home friends.  We entered the mountains as strangers, but we left as brothers………..”

“When men climb on a great mountain together, the rope between them is more than a mere physical aid to the ascent; it is a symbol of the spirit of the enterprise. It is a symbol of men banded together in a common effort of will and strength – not against this or that imagined foeman of the instant, but against their only true enemies:  inertia, cowardice, greed, ignorance, and all weaknesses of the spirit.”  The Savage Mountain - k2 by Charles Houston & Robert Bates

That’s it folks – thanks for your interest, comments and support - what an adventure!  The timing, the weather and climb to the summit by Todd, Dave & Fred – Team Get ‘er Done is just about as good as it gets on Denali!!  Vern Bass [As for me 'Wait until next summer – Denali here I come']

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Thursday, July 2, 2009

Get 'er Done - Day 14 - Thursday, July 2nd - Descend from High Camp.

Day 14 – Thursday, July 2nd – The team plans on leaving High Camp later today descending initially to 14,200 and on to 11,000 ft.  They will retrieve their caches, at 11,000 ft camp they will switch back to snowshoes and rest until late this evening.  By stopping at the 11,000 ft camp the team gets a chance to rest and allows the lower glacier snow / ice conditions to firm for safer travel across the Kahiltna Glacier.  When the team leaves the 11,000 camp they plan on going all the way back to the Kahiltna Glacier Base Camp at 7,200 ft.  It’s a long trip with all their gear but at least it’s down hill.  The team will likely fly out of Base Camp tomorrow Friday, July 3rd and back to Talkeetna. 

In addition to the congratulations due Todd, Dave and Fred it’s also time to thank Ana, Susan and Joan their wife’s, their families and all the friends who have supported the weeks and months of training and preparation that were part of any expedition.  Thank you all……….

**More information & updates as I receive them.  VEB.........

 
 

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Get 'er Done - Day13 - Wednesday, July 1st - SUCCESS & CONGRATULATIONS - THE TEAM SUMITTED DENALI 6PM Alaska.....

Talked w/ Todd via. Satellite phone 10:30AM - Denver this morning confirming that Todd, Dave and Fred, Team Get ‘er Done – GOT IT DONE - Summiting Denali - The Highest Peak in North America at 6PM - Denali time! 

 

Day 13, July 1st - Todd, Dave & Fred - Team Get ‘er Done all made the summit at aprx 6:10PM Denali time. If you followed the SPOT updates the team left High Camp / 17,200 at 11:23AM – were at the top of Denali Pass / 18,200 at 2PM, on the Football Field / 19,600 at 3:46PM and the top of Pig Hill just below the Kahiltna Horn / 20,100 at 5:19PM.  And after carefully negating the summit ridge, delayed by a descending team the team arrived at the summit of Denali – at 6:10PM – Denali time.   Todd indicated that the Summit Ridge was challenging but protected with pickets and the team used a running belay all the way to the summit.  From High Camp at 17,200 ft. to the summit of Denali 20,320 ft. in 6 1/2 hrs. - the team arrived safely back at High Camp / 17,200 at 10:32PM - Denali.  Round trip time aprx 11 hrs.  *Again congratulations to the entire team - GREAT JOB - CONGRATULATIONS.

 

 

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Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Get 'er Done - Day12 - Tuesday, June 30th - High Camp IV - 17,200 ft - Rest Day....

Not expecting to hear from Todd today unless there is an unexpected problem.  However, there might be a SPOT communication indicating they are still at High Camp IV – 17,200 ft.  
 
Day 12 – Tuesday, June 30th – Rest day at High Camp for Team Get 'er Done; likely speak with their families and prepare for Summit Day tomorrow - Day 13, July 1st.  While carrying lighter packs with only the bare essentials and survival gear Summit Day will unquestionably be the longest and  possibly hardest day on the mountain.  The 2.5 mi. 3,100 ft. climb can be broken into '3' parts.  The 1st part ascends Denali Pass up to 18,200 ft. via a long traverse from the SW.  The team was told earlier by the NPS and other returning climbers that the climb is well protected with buried & flagged pickets.  This will allow the team to safely travel up Denali Pass with a running belay.  The 2nd part follows the ridgeline up and along the SW face - past the Weather Meter [an ongoing Japanese project], above the Harper Glacier, around the right side of Archdeacons Tower at 19,650 ft. and on to the Football Field - a plateau about 1/4 mile across.  The final portion of the climb ascends the summit headwall called Pig Hill just below the Kahiltna Horn at 20,100 ft.  The final obstacle to negotiate before the summit is a 1/4 mi. corniced Summit Ridge.  Denali's South Summit - the tallest mountain is North America is 20,320 feet.  ***WISH THE TEAM - Dave, Todd & Fred GOOD LUCK, GOOD WEATHER AND GOD SPEED........
 
WEATHER; TUESDAY...PARTLY CLOUDY. HIGH AT 17,000 FT...5 BELOW.
WINDS FROM 17,000 FT TO THE SUMMIT...SOUTHWEST 20 MPH.
OUTLOOK WEDNESDAY THROUGH FRIDAY...
WARMER. PARTLY CLOUDY. SUMMIT WINDS 20 MPH OR LESS.
 
**More information & updates as I receive them.  VEB.........

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Get 'er Done - Day 11 - Monday, June 29th - Move to Camp IV - 17,200 ft.

Spoke w/ Todd via. Satellite phone – Monday evening 9PM Denver time – 7PM Denali after receiving a SPOT communication at 8:30PM Denver – 6:30PM Denali that the team was at 17,200 ft.………

Day 11 – Monday, June 28th – After 8 hrs. of climbing 3,000 ft. w/ 50 lb. packs the team [Dave, Todd & Fred] arrived at High Camp IV / 17,200 ft.  With the lack of oxygen [about ½ that found at sea level] , extreme cold, dry air and severe winds 17,200 is not a great place to camp.  Fred's cough was somewhat better at 14,200 but has  returned at the higher altitude.  At this time Todd & I agree the probable cause of Fred's cough is ‘High Altitude Bronchitis’.  While the hard candies & cough drops are helping the  Benzonatate or Tessalon Perles will help relieve the coughing by acting directly on the lungs and breathing passages.  **The plan for Tuesday - Day 12 is to remain at High Camp and rest and go for the summit on Wednesday, July 1st - Day 13...............

The weather continues to improve - cold but manageable wind;

TUESDAY...PARTLY CLOUDY.
HIGH AT 17,000 FT...5 BELOW.
WINDS FROM 17,000 FT TO THE SUMMIT...SOUTHWEST 20 MPH.
.OUTLOOK WEDNESDAY THROUGH FRIDAY...
WARMER. PARTLY CLOUDY. SUMMIT WINDS 20 MPH OR LESS.

 

**More information & updates as I receive them.  VEB.........


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Monday, June 29, 2009

Get 'er Done - Day 10 - Sunday, June 28th - Camp III - 14,200 ft. - Rest Day...

Spoke w/ Todd via. Satellite phone – Sunday, June 28th – 12:15PM  Denver time – 10:15AM Denali………

 

Day 10 - Sunday, June 28th - The team is taking a well deserved & needed rest day at Camp III / 14,200 ft.   Fred's cough is somewhat better. Todd said the team is taking a full rest day w/ plans of everyone moving to High Camp IV / 17,200 ft. on Monday.  High Camp, which tends to cluster around the vicinity of Rescue Gully is on the barren, windswept plateau at the East end of the West Buttress looking down on the 14,200 ft. camp.  High Camp is also the windiest and coldest and demands the most fortification against the elements.  The team plans to either take a rest day at Camp IV / 17,200 ft. on Tuesday, if needed, or go for the summit - 20,320 ft.  If the team takes a rest day at 17,200 on Tuesday they will go for the summit on Wednesday. 

 

**Weather - MONDAY NIGHT...PARTLY CLOUDY - LOW AT 17,000 FT...10 BELOW. WINDS FROM 17,000 FT TO THE SUMMIT...SOUTH 20 MPH OR LESS.
TUESDAY...MOSTLY CLOUDY - HIGH AT 17,000 FT...5 BELOW - WINDS FROM 17,000 FT TO THE SUMMIT...SOUTHWEST WINDS 20 MPH BECOMING WEST.
OUTLOOK WEDNESDAY THROUGH FRIDAY...WARMER. PARTLY CLOUDY WEDNESDAY AND THURSDAY. CLEARING ON FRIDAY. SUMMIT WINDS WEST 20 MPH OR LESS BECOMING NORTHEAST 20 MPH THU.

**More information & updates as I receive them.  VEB.........


 

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Get 'er Done - Day 9 - Saturday, June 27th - carry to 17,200 ft.

No satellite communication today – however, there were several SPOT messages at 6:16PM Denali time & again at 9:12 Denali time…

Day 9 – Saturday, June 27th – above 14,200 the real climbing begins and is almost totally dependent on ‘GOOD WEATHER’!  Dave & Todd carried up and cached supplies at 17,200 in preparation for their move up and ultimate summit bit – likely Tuesday or Wednesday.  Dave cough was better but not Fred’s.  Fred remained at 14,200, Camp III to rest. 

 

If Fred’s cough is related to ‘High Altitude Bronchitis’ / HAB using a scarf or mask to warm and humidify the air can be helpful both in preventing and treating the cough.  Hard candies or cough drops can also provide significant relief.  The team also carries Benzonatate or Tessalon Perle[Team medical kit] which relieves coughing by acting directly on the lungs and breathing passages.  HAB – is not associated with a fever, increased heart rate, shortness of breath or lips turning blue – these are / could be signs of more serious AMS!

Out of Camp III / 14,200 ft. the route climbs the West Buttress through its Southern flank and is the steepest climbing of the entire climb.  An initial climb of 1,200 ft. of moderate terrain leads to an 800 ft. 40-55 degree snow & ice climb known as the ‘Headwall’.  The fixed lines [2 separate lines for ascending on the right and descending on the left] protect and aid climbers up this final 800 ft. ‘Headwall’ to 16,200 ft.  The fixed lines are anchored w/ buried pickets about every 60 ft.  From 16,200 to 17,200 the route follows below, or North of the ridge line and weaves up through the rocks along the spine of the West Buttress.  When I spoke w/ Todd on Sunday, June 28th he said the route was well protected w/ spectacular views and good weather.

**More information & updates as I receive them.  VEB.........

 

 
 

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Get 'er Done - Day 8 - Friday, June 26th - Camp III - 14,200 ft

Spoke w/ Dave via. Satellite phone – Friday, June 26th – 7PM Denver time – 5PM Denali………

Day 8 – Friday, June 26th – the team is at ABC Camp III – 14,200 ft.  Thursday, June 25th – Day 7 on the way to 14,200 the team left the cache at 13,200 and went on to 14,200 & set up Camp III w/ the appropriate snow walls & fortification.  On Friday – the team rested early in the day and then returned to 13,200 and retrieved the cache. Dave indicated the trip back down to 13,200 only took 30 minutes but the trip back to 14,200 took 2 hours.  Good weather at 14,200 & spectacular views – only about 20 other people at ABC.  Dave guessed that with the improving weather many climbers had moved up to 17,200 for their summit attempt.  Team is in good health except for a persistent cough by both Dave & Fred – this could be a slight case of ‘High Altitude Bronchitis’ – a common & well-known problem w/ exertion & higher altitudes among climbers.
**More information & updates as I receive them.  VEB.........

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Friday, June 26, 2009

Get 'er Done - Day 7 - Thursday, June 23rd - Move to Camp III - 14,200 ft.

 While no phone communication today there were several SPOT messages at 5PM Alaska time & last night at 10:43PM Alaska Time Denali Time..........
 
Day 7 - Thursday, June 23rd - The SPOT message at 5PM was from 12,300 ft. on the route to Windy Corner and the 10:43PM message from 14,200 ft. would indicate the team has safely arrived at Camp III - 14,200 ft. - Advanced  Base Camp.  Because of the time between SPOT messages I am guessing the team retrieved their cache at 13,200 ft. and proceeded with all their gear to 14,200 ft. [we shall see].  While temperature can drop to -20 F when the sun dips behind the West Buttress the large plateau offers relative protection from the weather and allows climbers to acclimate while maintaining their strength.  Crevasse hazard is historically nonexistent within the immediate confines of camp.  The NPS maintains a camp here staffed with both climbing rangers and a medical personnel to assist in rescues and care of sick or injured climbers.   
**More information & updates as I receive them.  VEB.............

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Get 'er Done - Day 6 - Wednesday, June 23rd - Snowed In At 11,000

Spoke w/ Todd via. satellite phone - short conversation Wednesday,  June 23rd 7PM Denver - 5PM Alaska / Denali Time..........
 
Day 6 - Wednesday, June 23rd - The team has been 'Snowed In' at 11,000 ft. Camp II.  Well over 3 feet of Wet, Heavy snows have fallen.  While not unusual at this altitude the snow has kept the team from moving higher on the mountain.  So other than shoveling snow and trying to keep gear dry and organizing this has been a rest day.
**More information & updates as I receive them.  VEB...........

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