Get 'er Done - Day12 - Tuesday, June 30th - High Camp IV - 17,200 ft - Rest Day....

Not expecting to hear from Todd today unless there is an unexpected problem.  However, there might be a SPOT communication indicating they are still at High Camp IV – 17,200 ft.  

 

Day 12 – Tuesday, June 30^th – Rest day at High Camp for Team Get 'er Done; likely speak with their families and prepare for Summit Day tomorrow - Day 13, July 1st.  While carrying lighter packs with only the bare essentials and survival gear Summit Day will unquestionably be the longest and  possibly hardest day on the mountain.  The 2.5 mi. 3,100 ft. climb can be broken into '3' parts.  The 1st part ascends Denali Pass up to 18,200 ft. via a long traverse from the SW.  The team was told earlier by the NPS and other returning climbers that the climb is well protected with buried & flagged pickets.  This will allow the team to safely travel up Denali Pass with a running belay.  The 2nd part follows the ridgeline up and along the SW face - past the Weather Meter [an ongoing Japanese project], above the Harper Glacier, around the right side of Archdeacons Tower at 19,650 ft. and on to the Football Field - a plateau about 1/4 mile across.  The final portion of the climb ascends the summit headwall called Pig Hill just below the Kahiltna Horn at 20,100 ft.  The final obstacle to negotiate before the summit is a 1/4 mi. corniced Summit Ridge.  Denali's South Summit - the tallest mountain is North America is 20,320 feet.  ***WISH THE TEAM - Dave, Todd & Fred GOOD LUCK, GOOD WEATHER AND GOD SPEED........

 

WEATHER; TUESDAY...PARTLY CLOUDY. HIGH AT 17,000 FT...5 BELOW.
WINDS FROM 17,000 FT TO THE SUMMIT...SOUTHWEST 20 MPH.
OUTLOOK WEDNESDAY THROUGH FRIDAY...
WARMER. PARTLY CLOUDY. SUMMIT WINDS 20 MPH OR LESS.

 

**More information & updates as I receive them.  VEB.........

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Get 'er Done - Day 11 - Monday, June 29th - Move to Camp IV - 17,200 ft.

Spoke w/ Todd via. Satellite phone – Monday evening 9PM Denver time – 7PM Denali after receiving a SPOT communication at 8:30PM Denver – 6:30PM Denali that the team was at 17,200 ft.………

Day 11 – Monday, June 28^th – After 8 hrs. of climbing 3,000 ft. w/ 50 lb. packs the team [Dave, Todd & Fred] arrived at High Camp IV / 17,200 ft.  With the lack of oxygen [about ½ that found at sea level] , extreme cold, dry air and severe winds 17,200 is not a great place to camp.  Fred's cough was somewhat better at 14,200 but has  returned at the higher altitude.  At this time Todd & I agree the probable cause of Fred's cough is ‘High Altitude Bronchitis’.  While the hard candies & cough drops are helping the  Benzonatate or Tessalon Perles will help relieve the coughing by acting directly on the lungs and breathing passages.  **The plan for Tuesday - Day 12 is to remain at High Camp and rest and go for the summit on Wednesday, July 1st - Day 13...............

The weather continues to improve - cold but manageable wind;

TUESDAY...PARTLY CLOUDY.
HIGH AT 17,000 FT...5 BELOW.
WINDS FROM 17,000 FT TO THE SUMMIT...SOUTHWEST 20 MPH.
.OUTLOOK WEDNESDAY THROUGH FRIDAY...
WARMER. PARTLY CLOUDY. SUMMIT WINDS 20 MPH OR LESS.

 

**More information & updates as I receive them.  VEB.........

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Get 'er Done - Day 10 - Sunday, June 28th - Camp III - 14,200 ft. - Rest Day...

Spoke w/ Todd via. Satellite phone – Sunday, June 28^th – 12:15PM  Denver time – 10:15AM Denali………

 

Day 10 - Sunday, June 28th - The team is taking a well deserved & needed rest day at Camp III / 14,200 ft.   Fred's cough is somewhat better. Todd said the team is taking a full rest day w/ plans of everyone moving to High Camp IV / 17,200 ft. on Monday.  High Camp, which tends to cluster around the vicinity of Rescue Gully is on the barren, windswept plateau at the East end of the West Buttress looking down on the 14,200 ft. camp.  High Camp is also the windiest and coldest and demands the most fortification against the elements.  The team plans to either take a rest day at Camp IV / 17,200 ft. on Tuesday, if needed, or go for the summit - 20,320 ft.  If the team takes a rest day at 17,200 on Tuesday they will go for the summit on Wednesday. 

 

**Weather - MONDAY NIGHT...PARTLY CLOUDY - LOW AT 17,000 FT...10 BELOW. WINDS FROM 17,000 FT TO THE SUMMIT...SOUTH 20 MPH OR LESS.
TUESDAY...MOSTLY CLOUDY - HIGH AT 17,000 FT...5 BELOW - WINDS FROM 17,000 FT TO THE SUMMIT...SOUTHWEST WINDS 20 MPH BECOMING WEST.
OUTLOOK WEDNESDAY THROUGH FRIDAY...WARMER. PARTLY CLOUDY WEDNESDAY AND THURSDAY. CLEARING ON FRIDAY. SUMMIT WINDS WEST 20 MPH OR LESS BECOMING NORTHEAST 20 MPH THU.

**More information & updates as I receive them.  VEB.........

 

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Get 'er Done - Day 9 - Saturday, June 27th - carry to 17,200 ft.

No satellite communication today – however, there were several SPOT messages at 6:16PM Denali time & again at 9:12 Denali time…

Day 9 – Saturday, June 27^th – above 14,200 the real climbing begins and is almost totally dependent on ‘GOOD WEATHER’!  Dave & Todd carried up and cached supplies at 17,200 in preparation for their move up and ultimate summit bit – likely Tuesday or Wednesday.  Dave cough was better but not Fred’s.  Fred remained at 14,200, Camp III to rest. 

 

If Fred’s cough is related to ‘High Altitude Bronchitis’ / HAB using a scarf or mask to warm and humidify the air can be helpful both in preventing and treating the cough.  Hard candies or cough drops can also provide significant relief.  The team also carries Benzonatate or Tessalon Perles [Team medical kit] which relieves coughing by acting directly on the lungs and breathing passages.  HAB – is not associated with a fever, increased heart rate, shortness of breath or lips turning blue – these are / could be signs of more serious AMS!

Out of Camp III / 14,200 ft. the route climbs the West Buttress through its Southern flank and is the steepest climbing of the entire climb.  An initial climb of 1,200 ft. of moderate terrain leads to an 800 ft. 40-55 degree snow & ice climb known as the ‘Headwall’.  The fixed lines [2 separate lines for ascending on the right and descending on the left] protect and aid climbers up this final 800 ft. ‘Headwall’ to 16,200 ft.  The fixed lines are anchored w/ buried pickets about every 60 ft.  From 16,200 to 17,200 the route follows below, or North of the ridge line and weaves up through the rocks along the spine of the West Buttress.  When I spoke w/ Todd on Sunday, June 28^th he said the route was well protected w/ spectacular views and good weather.

**More information & updates as I receive them.  VEB.........

 

 

 

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Get 'er Done - Day 8 - Friday, June 26th - Camp III - 14,200 ft

Spoke w/ Dave via. Satellite phone – Friday, June 26^th – 7PM Denver time – 5PM Denali………

Day 8 – Friday, June 26^th – the team is at ABC Camp III – 14,200 ft.  Thursday, June 25^th – Day 7 on the way to 14,200 the team left the cache at 13,200 and went on to 14,200 & set up Camp III w/ the appropriate snow walls & fortification.  On Friday – the team rested early in the day and then returned to 13,200 and retrieved the cache. Dave indicated the trip back down to 13,200 only took 30 minutes but the trip back to 14,200 took 2 hours.  Good weather at 14,200 & spectacular views – only about 20 other people at ABC.  Dave guessed that with the improving weather many climbers had moved up to 17,200 for their summit attempt.  Team is in good health except for a persistent cough by both Dave & Fred – this could be a slight case of ‘High Altitude Bronchitis’ – a common & well-known problem w/ exertion & higher altitudes among climbers.

**More information & updates as I receive them.  VEB.........

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Get 'er Done - Day 7 - Thursday, June 23rd - Move to Camp III - 14,200 ft.

 While no phone communication today there were several SPOT messages at 5PM Alaska time & last night at 10:43PM Alaska Time Denali Time..........

 

Day 7 - Thursday, June 23rd - The SPOT message at 5PM was from 12,300 ft. on the route to Windy Corner and the 10:43PM message from 14,200 ft. would indicate the team has safely arrived at Camp III - 14,200 ft. - Advanced  Base Camp.  Because of the time between SPOT messages I am guessing the team retrieved their cache at 13,200 ft. and proceeded with all their gear to 14,200 ft. [we shall see].  While temperature can drop to -20 F when the sun dips behind the West Buttress the large plateau offers relative protection from the weather and allows climbers to acclimate while maintaining their strength.  Crevasse hazard is historically nonexistent within the immediate confines of camp.  The NPS maintains a camp here staffed with both climbing rangers and a medical personnel to assist in rescues and care of sick or injured climbers.   

**More information & updates as I receive them.  VEB.............

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Get 'er Done - Day 6 - Wednesday, June 23rd - Snowed In At 11,000

Spoke w/ Todd via. satellite phone - short conversation Wednesday,  June 23rd - 7PM Denver - 5PM Alaska / Denali Time..........

 

Day 6 - Wednesday, June 23rd - The team has been 'Snowed In' at 11,000 ft. Camp II.  Well over 3 feet of Wet, Heavy snows have fallen.  While not unusual at this altitude the snow has kept the team from moving higher on the mountain.  So other than shoveling snow and trying to keep gear dry and organizing this has been a rest day.

**More information & updates as I receive them.  VEB...........

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Get 'er Done - Day 5 - Tuesday, June 23rd - Cache at 13,200.

No satellite phone calls today - however, from SPOT [which is a great tool] this is what the team did today:

 

Day 5, Tuesday, June 23rd carried to 13,200 ft Windy Corner aprx 1.5 mi. and established a cache - got a SPOT from Todd at 4:11PM - Alaska time and another SPOT when they arrived back at Camp II, 11,000 ft at 5:40PM - Alaska time. A cache will also be established at the 11,000 ft. camp for snowshoes, a small food cache and any gear not needed on the upper mountain.  Climbing from here up will continue be roped but wearing crampons & ice axe.  Most of the elevation gain on the way to Windy Corner is immediately out of Camp II - up both Motorcycle Hill and then Squirrel Point and then a steep rise to the plateau just before Windy Corner.  If the weather clears at all the views from the top of Motorcycle Hill and higher are spectacular.  

 

Today - Day 6, Wednesday, June 24th - not sure what the team will do today?  They could move all the way to Camp III at 14,200 ft. - this large plateau - Gannett Basin - serves as Advance Base Camp for West Buttress Climbers.

**More information & updates as I receive them.  VEB...........

 

 

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Get 'er Done - Day 4 - Monday, June 22nd - Move to Camp II

Spoke w/ Todd via. satellite phone last night - Monday, June 22 [unexpected call] - 7PM Denver - 5PM Alaska / Denali Time..........

 

Day 4, Monday, June 22 the team [Dave, Todd & Fred] did sleep in - but not much.  The team with the remaining gear moved to Camp II - 11,000 ft., a small basin at the base of Motorcycle Hill - 7 hr. and 3,200 ft. climb from Camp I.  The weather remains heavily overcast with some whiteout conditions and it continues to snow.  While we were anticipating poor satellite communication is this part of the mountain the call from Todd was the best connection we have had so for.  

 

Today - Day 5, Tuesday, June 23rd the plan is to carry and establish a cache as high as possible - possibly at Windy

Corner - 13,000 ft. and aprx 1.5 miles.  A cache will be established at the 11,000 ft. camp for snowshoes, a small food cache and any gear not needed on the upper mountain.  Climbing from here up will continue be roped but wearing crampons & ice axe.  Most of the elevation gain on the way to Windy Corner is immediately out of Camp II - up both Motorcycle Hill and then Squirrel Point and then a steep rise to the plateau just before Windy Corner.  If the weather clears at all the views from the top of Motorcycle Hill and higher are spectacular.  The 'Low Pressure' to the South of Denali is expected to stay in place through Wednesday and then weaken through Saturday - winds at 14,000 Tuesday night are forecast to be 30 to 50 MPH from the Southeast - winds above 17,000 ft. are forecast to be 40 to 60 MPH. 

**More information & updates as I receive them.  VEB...........

 

 

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Get 'er Done - Day 3, Sunday, June 21st - BIG DAY!

Spoke w/ Todd via. satellite phone - 7PM Denver - 5PM Alaska / Denali Time..........

 

The GED team [ Dave, Todd & Fred] had a HUGE DAY today [you can see the movement & satellite image of the route via SPOT on the GED website] moving gear from Camp I at 7,800 ft. all the way to Camp II at 11,000 ft. at the base of Motorcycle Hill - 3,200 ft. in aprx 5 hrs. and then returned to Camp I.  That's HUGE folks and will eliminate at least a half days travel when they do move up to Camp II not having to retrieve a cache at a lower elevation.  The other event in route to 11,000 was establishing a cache at 9,500 ft. of several days food.  I am unclear at this time of the sequence of events or when the team got the information but.... the National Park Service has told the team it may not have to return all the way to Base Camp at 7,200 ft. but instead be picked up at between 9,000 and 10,000 ft. for their return to Talkeetna?  

 

The plan for today - Day 4, Monday, June 22 is to sleep-in and then move up with the remaining gear to Camp II - 11,000 ft. at the base of Motorcycle Hill.  The weather remains heavily overcast with some whiteout conditions [there have been some route finding issues] and cold.  Because of poor satellite phone communication is this part of the mountain I don't expect to hear from the team for the next couple of days.   **More information & updates as I receive them.  VEB...........

 

 

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Get 'er Done - Denali - Day #2 - Move to Camp I

Spoke w/ Todd via. satellite phone this morning - 10:45AM Denver - 8:45AM Alaska..........

 

The team [Dave, Todd & Fred] safely landed at the Kahiltna Glacier Base Camp - 7,200 ft. Friday afternoon, Day '1' with aprx 110 - 115 lbs. of gear each.  Because of the warm sunny weather and soft snow conditions a decision was made to rest until after midnight before heading out to Camp I.  The lower Kahiltna can act like a reflector oven and is generally avoided during the hottest parts of the day in late June & July.  At Base Camp you pick up your fuel - generally '1' gallon of Coleman White Gas per person and leave / burry a food cache of normally 2-3 days [this is just in case when you are ready to fly out there is a lengthy weather delay + a treat or two and possibly an adult beverage].  During the evening the weather at Base Camp deteriorated with much cooler temperatures and decreasing visibility.  Around 2AM the Team began preparing to leave Base and move to Camp I at the very base of Ski Hill / 7,800 ft. [elevation gain of 600 ft. & aprx 5.5 miles].  The team departed Base Camp roped up carrying heavy packs and sleds and at 3:30AM.  With  24 hours of day light night travel is not a problem and recommended on the lower glacier.  The route to Camp I initially descends Heartbreak Hill and swings wide into the main Kahiltna Glacier - this section has the largest crevasses and snow bridges on the entire route - another reason to travel at night when the snow is firmer.   The Team arrived safely at Camp I 4.5 hours later, about 8AM Alaska time in near whiteout conditions with only one minor incident; a snow bridge partially collapsed and while Fred sank in waist deep he was able to extricate himself unassisted. 

 

The team will establish & fortify Camp I and will be here at least '2' nights.  The remainder of Saturday - Day 2 will be spend organizing, resting and preparing for the first carry & cache to just below Kahiltna Pass - 9,700 to 10,000 ft. and about 2.5 miles.  The current plan is to gear up and leave Camp I around 8AM - Sunday, day #3.  From Camp I the route follows the less-crevassed center of Ski Hill angling slightly North at the top toward Kahiltna Pass.  For some reason the weather always seems 'BAD' as you gain elevation between Camp I and the Kahiltna Pass - the team will likely be wanding this route as whiteouts are common.  **More information & updates as I receive them. VEB......

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Get 'er Done team flies onto the Kahiltna Glacier & Base Camp

**Sorry all - yesterday was June 18th not May 18th .......... **And - the weather in Talkeetna has cleared and the Team is on there way to the Kahiltna Glacier & Base Camp at 7,200 ft.   Please wish them luck with the weather and Godspeed!

 

Last evening, June 18th the Get 'er Done Denali team [Dave, Todd & Fred] left Denver about 11PM, after a storm delay of 1 1/2 hrs., on Alaska Airlines for their direct flight to Anchorage.  [Vern's in Denver licking his wounds & recovering from the Bicycle wreck of May 17th while riding in the Santa Fe Century & will be posting information as available to the team website -  http://home.comcast.net/~denali2009/ and to the Get 'er Done Denali team blog: http://geterdone2009.blogspot.com/]  The Get 'er Done Denali team with all their baggage intact arrived in Anchorage early this morning - Friday, May 19th.  After a van shuttle to Talkeetna & checking in with TAT [Talkeetna Air Taxi] the them will meet with the National Park Service [NPS] for their orientation briefing.  **While the weather is partly cloudy in Talkeetna they are hoping to; organize gear, prepare the sleds with runners and be flown onto the Kahiltna Glacier Base Camp at 7,200 ft. by days end.  Pretty aggressive schedule!  *More updates as I receive them...... VEB 

 

From the book k-2 Savage Mountain & my new favorite quote......

"When men climb on a great mountain together, the rope between them is more than a mere physical aid to the ascent; it is a symbol of the spirit of the enterprise.  It is a symbol of men banded together in a common effort of will and strength – not against this or that imagined foeman of the instant, but against their only true enemies:  inertia, cowardice, greed, ignorance and al weaknesses of the spirit.  We entered the mountains as strangers but we left as brothers."

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Get 'er Done Team - On their way.....

Last evening, May 18th the Get 'er Done Denali team [Dave, Todd & Fred] left Denver about 11PM, after a storm delay of 1 1/2 hrs., on Alaska Airlines for their direct flight to Anchorage.  [Vern's in Denver licking his wounds & recovering from the Bicycle wreck of May 17th while riding in the Santa Fe Century & will be posting information as available to the team website -  http://home.comcast.net/~denali2009/ ]  The Get 'er Done Denali team with all their baggage intact arrived in Anchorage early this morning - Friday, May 19th.  After a van shuttle to Talkeetna & checking in with TAT [Talkeetna Air Taxi] the them will meet with the National Park Service [NPS] for their orientation briefing.  **While the weather is partly cloudy in Talkeetna they are hoping to; organize gear, prepare the sleds with runners and be flown onto the Kahiltna Glacier Base Camp at 7,200 ft. by days end.  Pretty aggressive schedule!  *More updates as I receive them...... VEB 

 

 

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Ready to leave, but cloudy weather for tomorrow :-(

We're getting ready to leave Denver.  We were hoping to fly onto the glacier to start our climb tomorrow (Friday 6/19/09), but the weather report for Friday for the Talkeetna / Denali area is "MOSTLY CLOUDY".  Rats!  -  Todd

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